Just Forking Around: Word of Mouth

It's a legend that has enthralled gourmets and gourmands ever since its genesis in the 1990s. Deconstructed it is a warm, poached oyster served on a bed of warm sabayon of pearl tapioca topped with a scoop of caviar. A mere spoonful whose mysteries unfold on the palate. To taste it was to savour each component separately and together: the silky custard suspended with pearls giving it texture, the delightfully poached fine de Claire oyster and the white sturgeon caviar lording it over: firm, nutty, and delightful like a breath of ocean air with a tantalising saltiness. But its creator top American toque Thomas Keller has never tasted it.

"I was walking down the aisles of a grocery store and there’s a box of purple tapioca with the word 'pearl' on it. And I think pearls come from oysters, so why don’t I put it together and add cavaiar to it. And bang the dish has been around for 12 years. I have never tasted it. I know what each component taste like, and I have an idea what the finished dish tastes like. I don’t do that for all my dishes."

Perhaps he fears tasting it could mean being ‘forced’ to evolve it. Why mess with a classic!

Three-star Michelin chef Annie Feolde of Restaurante Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence and Grand Chef of Relais & Chateaux in Italy talks about the masterpieces she plates.

It’s pretty ironic that the only three-star female Michelin chef from Italy is French. But Annie Feolde hasn’t added any Gallic airs to reach for these stars. Instead she has retained the essence of Tuscany, plating, as she puts it, “light and nice-looking dishes,
with roots in Tuscan cuisine” at Enoteca Pinchiorri, her restaurant in Florence named after her husband. The three Michelin stars, she believes, are a result of the top quality she has ensured in all aspects of her cooking.

I met her a couple of years ago, when she was invited to Le Normandie at The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok to offer foodies here a chance to experience her simple yet elegantly plated dishes. The focus at that time was on taste and the colours of Tuscany. Her amuse bouche was an indicator of things to come. A spoonful of couscous, tomato, celery, basil, drizzled with olive oil, it was light, refreshing with a slight crunch, an amalgam of basic Italian flavours

Noci Di Capessante Con Pomodoro Fresco E Crescione or scallop with fresh tomato and watercress

What is your food philosophy?

First of all, I want to be faithful to the style. I try to find traditional dishes, and we have deep-rooted traditions. What I have tried to do is not make these dishes modern but lighter. When I see an interesting recipe, I try to pick the main values, and then make them taste lighter. My menus are simple and they best reflect the Italian food. There is no need to be extremely fussy or cook Italian, French style (She’s French so she’s even more careful about this) Some people don’t understand my style. Sometimes I’m a bit angry when people criticise what I’m doing and I cannot argue them. Anyway, I don’t struggle with this because it usually ends up with compliments. They say my cooking style has a taste of French, which is not true. And though I am not denying my nationality, my food is Italian.

Fusilli Al Ferretto Con Gamberi, Bottarga Di Tonno E Liquirizia or home-made fussilli with tiger prawns, tuna bottarga and liquorice powder

Tuscan chefs are known for never tampering with the traditional recipes. How do you develop the recipes?

There was a revolution about 40 years ago in Italy which resulted in a modernised restaurant kitchen and cooking styles. However, I want to preserve the roots and Italian identity, as do some restaurants in the countryside. Meanwhile, chefs in town want to make it all more modern. I would not say I have modernised the dishes but just made them lighter.

Ravioli Siamesi Farciti Di Faraona Stufata E Burrata, Fonduta Di Parmigiano, Timo Fresco E Sugo D' Arrosto or Siamese ravioli filled with slowly braised guinea fowl and burrata cheese, parmesan fondue, fresh thyme and pan jus

How did it begin?

My husband had a wine bar... an enoteca. Then we added some food like appetisers and pasta to the menu. Once a French minister from the European Council visited and asked for Tuscan food, and when I said we didn’t serve any she closed the menu without ordering anything and continued talking to the other two gentlemen with her about politics. I was upset but realised I needed to learn more, do more. People from around the world come here expecting Tuscan. So I introduced Tuscan flavours to the menu and developed it from that. My food is very Tuscan now but it was not at first. I started to learn about ingredients from books but I couldn’t understand them completely, so I threw them away. When I decided to study again, I found that every recipe reflects the nation’s history and culture. As I knew more about the stories underneath recipes, I better developed them.

Have you ever felt like exploring French cuisine?

Never.

Do you consider Italian cuisine the best?

I’ve never felt it’s the best. Food business is competitive but I tend to preserve my style. It’s nice that everyone tries his/her best, but I’m not in school any more so I don’t want to fight. My three Michelin stars mean a lot to me. We always look for quality not ambition without efforts.

Orata In Crosta Di Olive Nere Con Purea Di Patate All' Olio Extra Vergine Di Oliva, Scalogno E Timo or Sea bream coated with black olives, potato puree whisked with extra virgin olive oil, shallots and herbs

What inspires you?

First I started cooking in order to please my husband and others. I love eating, and I wanted to make people feel good. Later on, I found I had a passion for this business. I love to be around people, I think the best way to get to know them is through the table.

What is your favorite cuisine besides Italian?

I like the Japanese, Thai and Chinese cuisines because they have so much variety.